Three of us finished Miracle Wave cosplays for Anime Los Angeles, and three more friends plan to join our group in the future. So I promised to create a guide for making these costumes (sorry it’s a month overdue, friends)! I made Riko, which has a skirt, so this will not provide information on how to make the shorts for Chika, You, Yohane, Kanan and Hanamaru. Suzanne also designed and made our t-shirts, so I will not be discussing that part of the costume.
Materials: the white fabric is Sparkle Armor from Joann’s. It is being discontinued, so grab it fast! The pinks are mystique spandex in bubblegum/baby pink and berry/fuchsia from Blue Moon Fabrics. The skirt trims are from Etsy. I believe the jacket ruffle mesh is this, though I might be wrong. The silver trim on the boot covers is from Joann’s; and the sparkle elastic, gems and zipper are all from the LA fabric district.
For the skirt, I started with a panel of white sparkle armor that was 96″ wide and 16.5″ tall. Please note that I am 6′ tall, so most people should probably do a shorter skirt. I interfaced the sparkle armor with shapeflex interfacing to make it stiffer and more opaque. I cut a 3.5″ wide band of the dark pink mystique spandex for the hem, and again ironed it to shapeflex interfacing.
I then stitched the wrong side of the white to the right side of the pink with a 0.5″ seam allowance, understitched the seam, and pressed it. I topstitched the pink spandex in place, then topstitched two rows of the pink sequin trim on top of it.
Sorry, I don’t really know how to explain it clearly, but I hope the photos help! Essentially, I hid the seam allowance inside the hem, like a hem facing but on the outside. Then I added the zipper and pleated the skirt. Every pleat includes a total of 13.5 inches. So the pleats are 4.5″/9″ at the waist and 6″/7.5″ at the hem. Then I topstitched a strip of pink spandex onto the waistband, and attached the waistband to the skirt. I hand stitched a hook & bar, and the skirt was done!
Well, almost done. I couldn’t forget the gold chain on the hip, or the MASSIVE R on the front, of course! For the R, I printed it on paper, cut it out, traced it onto wonder under, cut that out, ironed it onto the pink spandex, cut that out, peeled away the wax paper backing, and ironed it onto a super stiff backing. I then cut out the backing and satin stitched around the edges. It only took a few well-placed zigzag stitches to secure the R onto the skirt. Sorry, I didn’t take any photos of the pink gem (brooch? pin-back thing?) that goes on the waistband….
We spent a lot of time discussing how to make the jacket, and we certainly weren’t unanimous. The live version omits a shoulder seam, but half of us hated how that draped. We eventually settled on McCall’s M7636, which is a bomber jacket pattern. The sleeves are a 2-piece pattern, so there’s a seam under the arm and another in the back of the arm. Luckily, the larger piece had a grain line down the front of the sleeve, so I cut the pattern here.
So I cut the under front and under back pieces out of sparkle armor. Then the top sleeve piece is cut out of interfacing, ironed onto pink spandex, and cut out. I used 5/8” allowance for the three sleeve pieces, then topstitched the edge of the pink.
For the body of the jacket, I cut the entire front and back pieces out of the white sparkle armor. I had no pattern for the pink pieces at the shoulder, so I sketched it out using reference photos. I already stitched up the shoulder seam, so the pink area is actually all one piece. I also had to ensure that the pink at the shoulder lined up perfectly with the pink on the sleeve. This was actually not as hard as I thought, and I was able to sketch and then cut out the wonder under. I ironed it onto a large rectangle of pink spandex, then cut out the spandex, leaving an extra ½” allowance beyond the edge of the wonder under.
I then peeled away the paper backing and ironed down the allowance, being very careful not to let my iron directly touch the wonder under (the glue would adhere to my iron and basically ruin it, so I was suuuuper cautious with this step). With the allowance turned under, I ironed it onto the white pieces and topstitched the edge.
I did have to ease the sleeve into the armscye to make the pink edges match perfectly, and thankfully the sparkle armor does have a little bit of stretch. I was really pleased with how well this turned out!
Before repeating the process of the shoulders with the waistline, I shortened the jacket significantly. I also cut away about 2-3 inches out of center front, because the jackets stay quite open and never actually have to zip closed. I then drafted the pink parts and repeated the wonder under process.
Next was the step I feared the most: the names on the back of the jacket! Thankfully, Suzanne made a pattern for each of us, so I printed it, cut it out of the paper, traced it onto wonder under, and cut that out. I then ironed the wonder under onto a large pink spandex rectangle, cut out the letters, peeled away the backing, and ironed RIKO onto the back of the jacket. Then I had my first foray into satin stitching (eep!). I should have interfaced the interior of the sparkle armor, but I didn’t. Which meant I was satin stitching a stretch onto another stretch. So I had to fight my instinct to pull the fabric as I stitched around the curved edges. The final result definitely has some puckering, but it’s not noticeable when worn. The waist-length wig certainly helps to cover that too, haha!
I made some gathered trim for the jacket’s waistline (though I’d love to re-make it into the lovely neat box pleats that Suzanne has). Then I sewed the ruffle trim along the waistline and the zipper onto the center front. I didn’t like the drape and opacity of the sparkle armor, so I bought some white satin to line the jacket and sleeves. Serging the edges was a must, because cheap satin frays horrifically. I then bag lined the jacket to the lining, leaving the neckline open. I made a thin collar out of sparkle armor and interfacing and stitched it onto the jacket fabric. Then I hand stitched the lining to the collar, followed by hand sewing some white maribou (with iridescent strands, of course. Because this costume wasn’t extra enough already) onto the collar.
All that was left was the wrist of the sleeves! I shortened the sleeves a bit, then did two rows of basting stitches along the edge of the jacket and lining separately. I lightly gathered both of those until they had the right look without actually being tight. Next, I cut out two strips of the dark spandex (and roll hemmed the edge) and two strips of the wide mesh. I stitched these together with two rows of basting stitches. These were also gathered down and stitched to the jacket. I was worried about all these gathered layers staying the right circumference, so I secured the jacket sleeve to the ruffles with some bias binding before hand stitching it to the lining. And the jacket was done!
For the hair bow, I cut two rectangles of the white sparkle armor for the bow, two longer rectangles of the white sparkle armor for the bow tails, and four narrower strips of the pink spandex to go in the center of the rectangles. Using the same process from the jacket, I ironed the pink to wonder under, removed the paper backing, ironed over just the edges of the pink, then ironed a pink strip to the center of each white rectangle. I topstitched these to secure them in place. With right sides together, I stitched around the edge, leaving an opening to turn it right-side out. Then I ironed it well and hand stitched the opening closed. I repeated this process with the other rectangles. Then I gathered each one down in the center and positioned them to look like a bow with tails. I used a scrap of ribbon to tie it in place, then covered it with a strip of sparkle armor. I attach it to my wig with a clip.
For the boot covers, Suzanne and Marissa drafted these out, and I simply copied their pattern. I cut out the sparkle armor, but it was too sheer and not stiff enough. So I flatlined it with some cotton sateen. I wanted it to be stiff enough to hold its shape, but with two-way stretch so that I wouldn’t need to add a zipper. The cotton sateen worked surprisingly well! I again used wonder under for the pink diamonds. Since the edges are covered by trim, however, I did not need to iron them under. I simply zigzag stitched around the edge, then covered this with the silver trim. I waited until after this step was done to stitch up the back seam, which made the topstitching and attaching the trim soooo much easier. We used a sparkle elastic for the top and bottom of the boot covers. I was very careful not to stretch the fabric or the elastic when attaching it to the bottom edge. With the top edge, however, I stretched out the elastic as I attached it, so that it would fit snugly under my knee. I also attached two dangly strips of elastic at the side, and glued on the heart-shaped gem.
And this costume was DONE! It’s by far the sparkliest thing I’ve ever made, and I am 100% ok with that. I really want to challenge myself to try new things in 2019, and this was a great way to start the year.